Inside of the London Fashion Week diary

6.30pm

Alexandra Groover 

by Kate Rintoul

It was great to get of the London Fashion Week beaten track and go to This Space, an independent gallery just off regent Street for Central Saint Martins (CMS) alumnus Alexandra Groover’s show.

Though Alexandra only studied at CSM for a term she says her time there was life changing and is the reason she has stayed in London to start her label.

For her third eagerly anticipated collection, Black Ink, Groover developed her signature monochrome palate and development of jersey fabric.

Groover is inspired by and influenced by nature and the choreographed presentation of the collection was reminiscent of the movement’s of an octopus, with models splattered with ink and fine braided madussa-like hair.

Though avant-garde and fine art based the ongoing wearability and popularity of Groover’s designs was clear, with some of the crowed and Alex herself wearing parts of the collection, her designs can straddle both the commercial and creative markets.

It was great to see a young creative designer with such assurance over their work, her collection will no doubt add to her growing acclaim.

3.15pm

Louise Goldin

by Kate Rintoul

Leather also featured heavily in the show, also contrasted against very matte fabrics.

This understated form of embellishment was beautifully refined and emphasised the structural, almost, body armour feel to the collection.

This was one of Goldin’s most confident collections to date, utterly feminine but also powerful.

The structured dresses, jackets and coats showed her developments as a designer and her continuing utilisation of fabrics.

The form-fitting beautifully cut bodice jackets looked like they had been constructed on the models and the sharp silhouettes and lines gave the whole collection a seamless feel.

The palate was also sophisticated and mature, opening with a deep bottle green, to deep navy to black.

Despite the dark colours the collection was lively and highlighted by gold glitter tights and odd glitter shorts peaking out from under the structured tunic dresses.

Having collaborated with Topshop to create some fabulous if a little outlandish studded heels, Goldin seemed eager to define her style away from the cliché ideal of power dressing for which she is in danger of becoming known for.

Based on the collection it looks like sharp body conscious tailoring that enhances and exaggerates the female form look set to dominate A/W 10 fashion.

Texture, leather and subtle embellishment would also be a refreshing look for this winter, let’s hope that this level of refinement be filtered through to the high street.

2.15pm

Todd Lynn

by Kate Rintoul

After a last minute scramble I edged my way into the Todd Lynn show at the British Fashion Council (BFC) Tent.

Lynn’s latest collection was a perfect example of the razor sharp, androgynous tailoring that he has become known for.

The collection consisted in exquisitely cut jackets and trousers, a couple of skirts, jersey or tailored dresses featured but even these were layered over trousers.

Shoulders were accentuated but in a more sophisticated way than we saw in some dynasty-esque shows of A/W 09.

Some jackets incorporated fur on the shoulders while other more sculptural styles created cage-like shapes over the shoulders.

Leather featured heavily, either on it’s own or mixed with very matte fabric to produce great contrast and silhouettes.

A wonderful caramel suede was used for a gillet and jacket which really lifted the fawn palate and jersey fabrics during the first part of the show.

The palate was mixed, the show opening with fawn colours, moving to a mixture of darker browns before closing with the A/W staple, black.

Fashionistas who weren’t lucky enough to get their hands on Pierre Hardy for Gap’s strapped suede boots this year can breath a sigh of relief as Lynn featured similar styles, indicating that the look will carry over and be more widely available.

Having worked for Roland Mouret and from the amount of top fashion editors, including Alexandra Shulmann and Suzy Menkes, Lynn’s show is probably a good acid test for A/W 10.

The collection was not a total shift away from A/W 09 and it though looks like treggings, big shoulders and fur will carry over, the overall look was more polished and you can’t understand how happy I am to say, with not a single sequin in sight!

Charles Anastase

by Malgorzata Stankiewicz

The second day of the London Fashion Week started with the show from London-based French designer Charles Anastase.

His Autumn/Winter 2010 collection, entitled ‘Winter Garden’ lived up to its name as the models strolled down the runway in vividly-coloured, blanket-like woolen coats, floor-length dresses and chunky knits.

The shoes, as expected, where of extraordinary height in form of chunky lace-ups boots and cut-out wedges.

11am

Caroline Charles

We managed to skip the queue for this show, much to a disgruntled Lady GaGa look alike's dismay!

It was clearly divided into five sections and music fitted accordingly.

The first section had a 1930s' aesthetic with drop waists, bubble shapes, skinny belts, fascinators and low rimmed hats.

The intervening sections were very mediocre. Hues of brown, green and tan dominated and were only made exciting by cute, vintage-inspired aviator caps.

The final section of evening wear was well crafted and gold embellishment on quality black well-cut fabric was attractive, if very predictable, true 'Christmas Day' outfits.

An otherwise conventional show closed with a sort of avant garde anti-wedding finale in which a model wore a black dress and bridesmaids subtle gold.

Despite the obvious last ditch attempt of this tapped on at the end to make the show exciting, these were the stand-out pieces.

Overall the first morning was not earth shattering but proved a nice warm up to the joys that the weekend will hopefully provide.

11.30am

Charlie Le Mindu

by Malgorzata Stankiewicz

London Fashion Week started for me with an eagerly awaited, slightly off-schedule show from eccentric French hairdresser turned-designer Charlie Le Mindu.

The 23 year-old celebrity wig-maker did not fail to wow the fashion crowd with his occult-inspired A/W 2010 collection.

As the lights went down, the church bells begun to chime enigmatically and the first model emerged.

Wearing a cut-out black lace bodysuit, black lace gloves trimmed with hair resembling goatskin fur and a matching bag, her head was adorned by a crystal-encrusted crucifix.

After, more black lace-and-hair outfits followed and the highlights of the show included an oversized headpiece inspired by Foot Guard’s infamous bearskin hat, an open Fabergé egg and a ice-blue fox and hair cape and coat.

The jade-green and cobalt-blue make-up lifted the collection from sinister to futuristic.

Looking back at his past designs, Le Mindu’s latest show is definitely more refined and sophisticated, yet to call it understated or even, dare I say, wearable would be an undeniable overstatement.

But with eccentric dressers like Lady GaGa and La Roux being loyal fans to the brand, Le Mindu’s designs will most definitely hit the spotlight.

7pm

Fashion for relief at Somerset House

by Malgorzata Stankiewicz

The 26th London Fashion Week started on a high note as Stratham-born supermodel Naomi Campbell hosted a celebrity-studded catwalk show - turned charity auction, Fashion For Relief at Somerset House on Thursday evening.

In collaboration with White ribbon Alliance and supported by Sarah Brown, the even attracted fashion, media and music moguls alike who reached deep into their pockets, raising £1million for the charity which works with the survivors of the Haitian earthquake.

The show opened with supermodels Kate Moss, Annabelle Neilson and Naomi Campbell paying tribute to late enfant-terrible of British fashion, Alexander McQueen.

While three models strolled down the runway in blue, digitally-printed dresses, the audience applauded both the supermodels and the lost genius.

Celebrities like Alice Dellal, Roisin Murphy, Denise Van Outen, and Pixie Geldof, watched closely by sitting in the front row and Pixie's dad, sir Bob Geldof, joined Campbell on the catwalk.

Little Britain’s David Walliams and James Corden, Kimberley Walsh, Nicola Roberts and Jo Wood were also among those who took part in the event.

After the show the auction was held during which the first dress by dame Vivienne Westwood reached a staggering £20,000 within less than 90 seconds while Damien Hirst’s painting sold for a mind-blowing £300,000.

So far, the event has raised an incredible £1 million but the final sum is expected to greatly exceed this amount as net-a-porter.com, the online luxury fashion boutique, will be selling many of the designs from March 15 with all the proceedings going to The White Ribbon Alliance.

Pictures: Quinn Palmer